I was given a low GI cookery book recently, by a mate who wanted to know if I thought there was anything in the idea of eating low GI food - or whether a low GI alternative was just too depressing to bother with. I flicked through it a bit listlessly. I am someone whose body is inclined towards fat rather than towards thin, which means that for my entire life I have, along with Victoria Wood, been somewhere on the spectrum of fat/very fat/a bit fat/less fat. I tackle it with that good old fashioned diet known as All Things In Moderation plus Run Around A Bit More. Really not rocket science. I have loathed, consistently, every fad diet, and have tried precisely none of them. My issue with food, actually, is that I have a sugar addiction. I mean this without humour. I have struggled with this for as long as I can remember, and frankly I am pretty confident it is an addiction I share with millions of people, most of whom don't want to admit they are addicts. When I "diet", what that means for me, is going through weeks and weeks of feeling a horrible withdrawal after walking away from my favourite bar of chocolate. Even during a successful, long phase of healthier choices, I know I am never more than one birthday party away from a terminal lapse back into sugar overload.
Does it seem as if I am my own worst enemy then, with all this tempting stuff I bake? I'm often asked by my friends why I'm not the size of a house, with all the homemade cake. But, sugar addict though I am, the temptation is yet superseded by something very different when I bake. I never, ever, bake something because I want to eat it. I bake it because I want to make it. Because the process of creating it is at the same time relaxing and inspiring. Most of my baking produce is stuff I take one slice of and that's it. I just want to know how it tastes when it comes out. The sieving of flour, melting of chocolate, or whisking of egg white are as energising to me as participating in a football match might be to someone else. So, as I flick through the Low GI cookbook, my main thought is, well why? I mean, I get the tune and cannellini bean stuff, but if you make a tart for the sheer enjoyment of it, then I am really unconvinced that you would get the same culinary high making a honey cream tart with digestives and butter instead of flour, and cream cheese and honey instead of milk, cream and sugar. I give it a go anyway - I make the tart, and it's yummy, just a bit boring to make, it takes me all of 15 minutes, I throw the strawberries on top, I dust it with icing sugar as directed, and serve it without a ganache in sight, and yes, it's eaten, though perhaps with marginally less enthusiasm. I turn then to the coffee and chocolate truffles, and oh joyohjoy, it entails melting chocolate, so I choose my very best dark stuff, and watch it melt to molten black gold colour, and then I add espresso coffee which turns it into a viscous pool, and then, mesmerisingly, I swirl honey into it, and I watch it, and stare at it, and...oh bollocks, I've spent so long staring at it that it's solidified. Well, if the purpose of low GI food is to eat less diabetes inducing calories, this last recipe has totally done the job. It's a thing of such beauty to create, that I spoil two more batches before I make something edible out of it. Excellent. Recipes for food you keep spoiling. Someone should give that a name and market it. I feel sure it would catch on in the modelling industry.
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